Pumpkin Bread

A recipe for taking the edge off, and a literal recipe that kicks off a weekly feature in this space

A small (!) neck pumpkin from Lancaster, Pa.

Hello out there! I know that my posts have been infrequent, but that’s about to change. I’m getting back in the writing saddle and that means at least one — and ideally two — posts per week. As part of that plan, I’ll share a recipe on one day and an essay on another. You can follow the recipe in the body of this note, or you can view it in an attached PDF, which I hope you’ll find handy (and please let me know if that is not the case). If you like what you read, please spread the word. Cue cute pink button below. Love, KOD

Pumpkin spice ain’t that nice, but neck pumpkin is another story. Also known as Pennsylvania Dutch Crookneck Squash, the neck pumpkin sometimes looks like a French horn or a travel pillow. In the kitchen, it will remind you of an oversized butternut squash, with its relatively thin skin, deep orange flesh, and easy-going personality.

Don’t fret if you’ve never seen one; before moving to Lancaster, Pa., I hadn’t, either. Now I stock up at this time of year and roast a few and freeze the flesh for later. For folks living in neck-free zones, the butternut is an excellent stand-in. Not all winter squash work; stringy varieties like spaghetti and acorn are best for another time. (Let me know if you’d like a primer on other winter squash varieties, and I’m happy to oblige.)

But the point is — Roasted pumpkin puree is the difference between just-fine pumpkin bread and the really good stuff. The canned puree is fine. Perfectly serviceable. But just not as interesting.

If you’re still with me, whack that thing on the floor and coax it open (see how-to details beneath recipe.) No oil, just a hot oven and about 90 minutes of your time, which you can spend not watching the news.

I pulled this recipe out of my files a week or so ago for friends who came for dinner. It’s so good and fragrant I should have made two loaves. Which is what I’ll do next time and recommend that you do, too. The extra loaf goes to a friend who needs a sweet nothing, a reminder that she’s loved.

It won’t make the suffering of the world go away, but it might, just for a moment, take the edge off.

Pumpkin bread made with roasted neck pumpkin puree

REALLY GOOD PUMPKIN BREAD

©Kim O’Donnel

Makes 12 servings

Ingredients

• 3/4 cup neutral oil

• 1 cup granulated sugar, plus 2 teaspoons for sprinkling

• 2 large eggs, at room temperature

• 1 1/4 cups pumpkin puree, ideally from a roasted winter squash (see how-to details below)

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

• 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

• Pinch ground cloves

• 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 to 2 tablespoons raw pepitas, for garnish (optional)

Generously grease a loaf pan with butter or oil spray.

Preheat the oven to 350 F.

Place the oil and 1 cup of the sugar in the bowl of a food processor or a stand mixer with a paddle attachment. (Plan B: You can do this by hand with a large balloon whisk.)

Mix until well blended and creamy, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed.

Add the eggs, one at a time, blending until the mixture is thick and somewhat viscous.

Add the pumpkin puree, mixing until just incorporated.

Pour the baking powder, baking soda, salt, 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and cloves directly on top of the batter. Mix until just incorporated (If you are using a food processor, one or two “pulses” should do.)

Gradually add the flour, also mixing ever so gently (it’s OK if a few flour specks remain).

Pour batter into greased loaf pan.

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining 2 teaspoons of sugar and 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon. Sprinkle all over the top of the batter. Decorate with pepitas, if using.

Place in the preheated oven and bake until a skewer inserted in a few places comes out clean, 60 to 65 minutes.

Let the cake cool for at least 15 minutes before gently tipping out of pan. Cool completely before serving.

Really Good Pumpkin Bread

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How to roast a five-pound winter squash

With a large sharp knife or cleaver, carefully cut the squash into half, then into fourths (and maybe into eighths). Remove the seeds and stringy pulp.

Preheat the oven to 400 F.

It’s nice to line a pan with parchment paper, but it’s not a deal breaker. (However, be prepared to spend a little more time scrubbing burned-on bits.)

Arrange the squash in a single layer, flesh side up.

Roast until until very soft and paring knife-tender. Completely cool before handling. Scoop flesh away from the skin and store in the refrigerator or use right away.